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A Wine-Lover’s Tour de France

A Wine-Lover’s Tour de France


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Riding in the Tour de France is a noble and immensely demanding pursuit. But for some of us, combing the hills of France for sport conjures images of competitive wine tasting rather than bicycles and spandex. A wine-lover’s version of a “tour de France” makes stops for farmers markets, restaurants

housed in 17th century estates, and renowned wineries. And while this tour may follow a similar route to the cyclists’, from the northwest near Mûr-de-Bretagne, south through Provence, and rounding out near Paris, it stops for wine, not water. With ten stages, compared to the official Tour’s 21, wine-lover’s will crisscross the cyclists’ run — at the time of publication, they’re powering through stage ten from Saint-Flour. (Photo courtesy of Flickr/rAdAdA)

Stage 1: Quimper

Known best for its cider, rather than wine, Quimper is in the region of Brittany on the northwestern coast. Visit the storied Ciderie Manoir du Kinkiz where you can learn about their production of cider, taste some straight from the source, and tour their idyllic grounds. During Stage 5, the cyclists were working overtime in nearby Carhaix, one of the oldest cities in western France.

Stage 2: Chinon

In Stage 7, the cyclists traveled from Le Mans to Chateauroux, which inspired this pit-stop in Chinon at Baudry-Dutour’s vineyards and cellars. The Coteau de Sonnay cellar, carved from native tuffeau stone, is situated along the Chinon wine route. Find dinner (and a perfect wine pairing) at the Auberge du Val de Vienne, also along the route.

Stage 3: St. Estephe

Traveling from Chinon to St. Estephe should be simple, provided you’re not biking. While Mark Cavendish and Sebastien Hinault were battling from Aigurande to Super-Besse Sancy in Stage 8, we were dreaming of visiting Chateau Haut-Marbuzet in nearby (and well-known Medoc growing region) St. Estephe to sample their vintages. Drinking their wines means learning about the process of production and touring the stunning, immense grounds with owner and wine maker Henri Duboscq and his sons.

Stage 4: Mercues

Instead of beginning the eastern arc so soon, stay in Bordeaux with a quick stop in Mercues. Stage 10 sees the cyclists pass by the famous clock tower of Saint-Flour, but you’ll be passing through the

intimate cellar of Chateau de Mercues. Book a room in the hotel, find a table at the estate’s restaurant, and don’t miss their award-winning Malbec. Visit them during harvest, take a course on pairings, and learn about such gastronomic delights as truffles and saffron on site. (Photo courtesy of Flickr/Andrealighting)

Stage 5: Lorgues

The cyclists will struggle from Limoux to Montpelier. Stop in Limoux between January and March to take part in their three-month long carnival or skip ahead toward Provence for a wine-soaked tour at Chateau de Berne. Tours are as process-intensive as you’d like with some going from vine to glass and others focusing more on glass alone. Stay in the hotel, take a cooking course, and grab a bite in the property’s restaurant — this is one stop the cyclists should perhaps plan to make once the Tour is done.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Burgundy Culinary Travel: The Ultimate Wine Lover&aposs Trip

T he Burgundians probably didn&apost set out to confuse visitors, but the nomenclature of wines and regions is structured like Russian dolls, one hidden inside the next. Within the Côte-d&aposOr département is the Côte de Nuits subregion. It starts in the southern suburbs of Dijon and runs south along limestone bluffs to Beaune. Côte de Nuits is where winemaking gets seriously serious. Village and vineyard names — Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanພ — are world-renowned, usually for good reason.

Sometimes the easiest way to find a bottle you love is to ask for advice over a meal. Your first stop should be Restaurant Les Gourmets in Marsannay-la-Côte, 15 minutes south of Dijon. It sits in vineyards with a summer terrace and dining room built onto a handsome stone house. Chef Joël Perreaut and his sommelier wife Nicole have nearly 600 wines on their list — a lot for a Michelin one-star property. Okay, the scallop carpaccio with passion fruit might not work for everyone, but the oeufs en meurette with Marsannay Chardonnay flanked by garlicky snails, and the deep-dish chocolate torte are winners.

While in the area, pay a visit to Domaine Bart to try and buy subtle, underrated, underpriced reds redolent of violets. You&aposll get a friendly, warm welcome at this small, independent winery.

François Brugère, an old-fashioned winegrower, makes about 35,000 bottles a year of good-value, underrated red and white Marsannay at his small family-run winery in the northernmost vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. He and his wife, Anne, also run a simple but charming B&B set in the vineyards, serving memorable breakfasts with homemade everything.

Culinary Highlights

Restaurant Les Gourmets
8 rue Puits de Têt
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-52-16-32
les-gourmets.com

Domaine Bart
23 rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
03-80-51-49-76

Fromagerie Gaugry
10 route Nationale 74
21220 Brochon
03-80-34-00-07
gaugryfromager.com

Chez Guy
3 place de la Mairie
21200 Gevrey-Chambertin
03-80-58-51-51
hotel-bourgogne.com

Château du Clos de Vougeot
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-09
www.tastevin-bourgogne.com

Domaine Bertagna
Rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
03-80-62-86-04
domainebertagna.com

Domaine Alain Michelot
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-61-14-46

Le Cassissium
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
03-80-62-49-70
cassissium.com

Jean-Baptiste and Gilles Joannet
Rue Basse
21700 Arcenant
Jean-Baptiste: 03-80-61-12-23
Gilles: 03-80-61-22-80

Le Charlemagne
Route des Vergelesses
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
03-80-21-51-45
lecharlemagne.fr

Domaine Comte Senard
Les Meix
21420 Aloxe-Corton
03-80-26-41-65
domainesenard.com

Down the highway at Brochon, the Fromagerie Gaugry has been making all the regional specialty cheeses — Époisses, Ami du Chambertin, Plaisir au Chablis, Soumaintrain — for three generations. The factory is open for visits, and its new, ultramodern boutique on the main Route Nationale highway opened recently. Pick up specialty foods and wines here for a picnic.

Chez Guy in charming Gevrey-Chambertin is the kind of updated, hip eatery you dream of finding. Owner-chefs Eric Cherval and Yves Rebsamen did the rounds of marquee restaurant kitchens, learning the secrets of sophisticated architectural haute. Then they opened this unpretentious hot spot with a terrace on Gevrey-Chambertin&aposs main square, reinvented regional fare, and watched the crowds arrive. The decor and food match: modern touches like blond wood and contemporary art, plus exposed ceiling beams and a big old fireplace. In other words, past and present combined. So, for example, you&aposll find classic snails and foie gras or jambon persillé as starters, and filet mignon of pork with old-fashioned Dijon mustard sauce as a main dish, but they&aposre light on fat and beautifully plated. You&aposll also be able to order inventive dishes such as tuna tartare with pine nuts and pesto, or filet of duckling with exotic spices. The wine list is narrow but deep, the prices a giveaway.

You&aposll recognize the square towers, gabled roof, and 12th-century cellars of Château du Clos de Vougeot from every tour brochure you&aposve ever seen featuring Burgundy, but don&apost be jaded. The château is gorgeous, open to visitors, and set among vineyards worth more than their weight in platinum. This is the HQ of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, the Grand Pooh-Bahs of Pinot Noir. They wear gold and scarlet robes and four-cornered hats, use silver tasting cups, and rate scores of Burgundy wines. There are more than 80 owners of the château&aposs vineyards, so the quality of its branded wines varies widely, but the setting and cellar are consistent knockouts.

Nearby in Vougeot, Domaine Bertagna is increasingly recognized by wine experts as a seriously good winery making huge but still affordable wines and warmly welcoming wine lovers to its tasting room even if you haven&apost made an appointment. Just down the road is Domaine Alain Michelot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a biggish, bustling town with dozens of wineries.

Hard-core lovers of black currants — a centuries-old Burgundian crop — will want to brave the tour bus crowds and explore Le Cassissium in Nuits-Saint-Georges&aposs eastern outskirts. Two artisanal cassis makers, brothers Gilles and Jean-Baptiste Joannet, host workshops facing each other across the highway in Arcenant in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Like the Hautes Côtes de Beaune a few miles south, this is a relatively recent winegrowing subregion, spreading across tableland high above prime vineyards. A drive-through is scenic, and some bottlings are remarkably good values.

At the vine-covered Le Charlemagne restaurant in Pernand-Vergelesses, intrepid young chef Laurent Peugeot and his Japanese wife, Hiroko, preside over a glassed-in dining room with vineyard views decorated in a red-and-white contemporary style with bonsai on the tables. Peugeot&aposs imaginative cooking draws on years of experience in both major Burgundian kitchens and in Japan. His snail-filled ravioli come in a frothy edamame bouillon, and he offers a prawn and nori risotto with Burgundy truffle and chunks of aged goat&aposs cheese.

Winemaker Philippe Senard at Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton serves a wine-tasting lunch of simple regional specialties to accompany the estate&aposs Grand, Premier, and Communal Crus. Private wine tastings and tours of the landmark 12th-century cellars are available by reservation.


Watch the video: Alberto Contadors Brutal Attack on Alpe dHuez (July 2022).


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